We totally stripped the deck and cabin of all teak and hardware (except the steering pedestal) in preparation for repainting. Since we already had the toe rails off, we also opened up the hull/deck joint - very carefully, about 2 or 3 feet at a time - in hopes of eliminating as many leaks as possible. We held it open with small oak wedges while cleaning out all of the old compound (just as soft and worthless as the stuff that had been used in the keel/hull joint). We then went around again and rebedded it with 3M 5200. We also bedded all of the screws, of course. The after half of our toe rails had had additional through bolts installed by a previous owner. We bedded all of the bolts and screws when re-installing the toe rail. It was a lot of work, but worth it. The boat is now (almost) DRY! We also drilled out and opened up small scuppers in the toe rail flanges to mate with the molded in scuppers in the deck. When we reinstalled the deck hardware, we drilled the holes oversize, packed them with filled resin, and then drilled the proper holes before bedding in the fittings.
We removed the original bi-color running light that was effectively hidden behind the stem fitting and forestay. We mounted a new running light on the pulpit and ran the wires through the tubing. We removed the original single cleat forward and mounted a pair of 8" cleats near the toerails aft of the chain locker. We mounted skene chocks forward. (There had been none.) The clearances inside the chain locker are very tight. My son left quite a bit of flesh and blood there while mounting the skene chocks. We mounted hinges on the port side of the chain locker hatch and a hasp on the starboard side. In hindsight, it would have been better to put the hinges to starboard and the hasp to port. It would be a bit easier to deploy the anchor.
We found that the pushpit at the stern was very loose. The two rear uprights were bolted into plastic expanding anchors that were fitted into holes drilled into the top of the transom. Unfortunately, the gap between the inner and outer hulls at the transom was filled with the same worthless compound as the keel and hull/deck joints. There was no support for the rail. We cleaned all of this out and re-packed it with filled epoxy near the backstay tangs and bondo elsewhere. We cut out holes on the inside of the transom to access the backing plates and nuts that we used to remount the pushpit. Round plastic access plates cover the holes. We installed new black plastic trim to cover and protect the outside edge of the transom.
When we originally decided to turn the starboard quarter berth into a cockpit locker, we used a commercial flush mounted hatch in the cockpit seat for access. Unfortunately, the one we found leaked pretty badly and no other standard flush hatches were the right size. So we made a mold from the original port locker cover and then built up a new one from fiberglass and epoxy. We also had to build a fiberglass drain channel system and install that in the starboard cockpit seat. (We first made a form that duplicated the measurements of the port side system.) Our new hatch has worked out beautifully and even sports the original "Newport" logo and background texturing. I made up a simple line hanger system that doesn't interfere with crawling into the locker when that is necessary and removable side panels for both lockers to keep stray bits from getting tangled in the engine. Both lockers filled up so quickly and so completely that I don't know how we would have survived with only one!
We removed the teak blocks and the air scoops at the aft corners. The bilge blower now vents through a small plastic grill in the outside of the starboard cockpit coaming and is wired to come on whenever the engine is running. With the teak blocks and air scoops gone, we were able to mount a pair of 6" stainless horn cleats at the corners for dock lines. We also mounted a pair of the 6" cleats amid-ships for spring lines.
We mounted a new stern running light on the transom below the starboard corner in place of the old fuel overflow vent. We replaced the original fuel fill fitting at the aft end of the port cockpit seat with the plastic Perko unit that has a built in vent. The vent and fuel fill lines must be able to drain back into the tank (no low spots) in order to work properly. We had a lot of trouble with fuel gushing from the filler before we figured that out.
We painted the deck with single part Interthane in white and gray and added non-slip grit to the gray. The taping between the colors was very time consuming but worth the effort. We painted the topsides with 2 part dark blue Interthane. This took some practice to get the thinning right, but it looks great after 3 coats (rolled and tipped, wet sanded between coats.) Once we got the system down, it took less than an hour to go all the way around the boat. The only problem was that the surveyor complained that he could no longer read the hull number because the paint had partially filled it in. We know all the work has been worthwhile when people come up to us on the dock and ask "Is that a new C&C?"
It took two complete applications of Peel Away to strip all of the accumulated bottom paint. It was not a fun job, but it sure beat sanding it all off. Since the bottom of the hull was down to gel coat and then epoxied (3 coats), we initially went with a vinyl bottom paint. It is a much harder finish and can be sanded. It seemed to hold up well in Portland Harbor. There was just a bit of slime. But in subsequent years, we used the standard Trinidad SR which has also worked well.
We did find that the original waterline was too low. It also wasn't level! To minimize growth on the bootstripe, we raised it a couple of inches amidships. That made it just about level with the original line at the bow and stern.
UPDATE: After raising the waterline even more and still getting a green beard all around the boat, we gave up and painted over the bootstripe with bottom paint.